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We
accept personal and business
checks & all major credit cards! |
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Below you will find an online
brochure and other information for Fabral Sheet Metal
products.
To request a brochure and more information about Etomic
Steel Structures and Carports.com to be mailed to you, click
here.
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 Original
Grandrib 3® and Grandrib 3® PLUS profiles, with their
clean traditional lines, are manufactured from only the best
prime quality structural steel available—no seconds ever!
Our drive to be the best means that we start with the finest
materials and finish it with a premium coating
system—Super Alurite® 2000.
Whether your application is new or old, commercial,
agricultural or residential, Fabral's panels and paint
systems are designed to exceed your requirements and
expectations. Make Grandrib 3® or Grandrib 3® PLUS panels
your choice for all your metal panel building needs.
Specifications
- The original time-tested
profile
- 29 ga. structural
quality, full-hard steel
- 10 layers of protective
coating
- High-performance Super
Alurite® 2000 paint system
- Class 4 hail impact
resistance (UL 2218)
- Class A fire resistance
rating (UL 790)
- Anti-siphon sidelap
design for excellent weathertightness
- Custom cut to lengths up
to 40'
Color
Charts
Colors shown
will vary based on your monitor type and settings. Actual
metal samples are available. Due to product improvements,
changes and other factors, FABRAL reserves the right to
change or delete information herein without prior notice.
Metal
Roofing Warranty
- Grandrib 3® Warranty
- Standard galvanized
coating
- 30-year non-prorated
film integrity warranty for walls and roofs
- 25-year warranty
against fade and chalk for walls and roofs
- Grandrib 3® Plus
Warranty
- Heavy duty
galvanizing for long-term corrosion resistance
- 35-year non-prorated
film integrity warranty for walls; 30 years for
roofs
- 25-year warranty
against fade and chalk for walls and roofs
- 10-year edge rust
warranty against acid rain
- 25-year
non-perforation warranty against acid rain for
walls, 20 years for roofs
Metal
Roofing Installation
Use the
links below to download installation instructions found on
this page in PDF or Microsoft Word format:
Building
Design and Construction
To ensure adequate
performance and longevity, protect metal panels from
potentially corrosive situations and materials. When treated
lumber will be in direct contact with metal panels please
note the following: Galvanized steel is compatible with the
CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) pressure-treated lumber that
is predominantly used today, but not with the older Penta
treated lumber. Aluminum, however, must be separated from
contact with all treated wood since the chemical
preservatives are corrosive to aluminum. Likewise,
dissimilar metals also require a protective barrier between
them to prevent galvanic corrosion. Request FABRAL Technical
Bulletins #803, 106, and 107 for more information on treated
lumber and dissimilar metals.
Plastic, builders' felt,
bituminous paint, caulking, or gasket material may be used
to separate panels from treated wood and dissimilar metals.
When using aluminum panels in direct contact with steel, use
one of the above methods to separate the two metals.
Fertilizer, lime, acids,
feeds, manure, soils, and many other substances also cause
corrosion in metal panels. Contact between metal panels and
any potentially corrosive materials should be prevented.
Porous insulation board may
absorb and retain moisture, and requires a vapor barrier
similar to that described above. This vapor barrier should
be installed such that moisture is prevented from contacting
both the insulation and the metal panel.
FABRAL's
translucent panels are intended for siding applications
only. In all situations, foot traffic should be
avoided on translucent panels. Translucent panels used in
roofing applications will break down over a short period and
stain metal panels below, eventually causing corrosion of
the metal. If used on roofs, use butyl caulking to separate
the fiberglass from the metal. The fiberglass panels should
be sealed regularly, as recommended by the translucent panel
manufacturer.
Purlins,
Girts and Roof Deck
The material to which the
metal panel is fastened should be properly spaced and
sufficiently thick to provide a roof or wall system able to
meet required design loads. Load tables are available for
all FABRAL panels. FABRAL recommends spacing the purlins a
maximum of 24" on-center for roofing (note that 5V
requires solid decking).
In re-roofing jobs where
the condition of the old decking is in question, or where
existing shingles will be left in place, new 2x4 purlins
should be fastened through the decking and into the rafters.
This will provide a solid framework for attaching the metal
panels.
A 2" nominal lumber
thickness provides the maximum pullout values for both
screws and nails when the fasteners achieve a minimum of
1" penetration into the wood. (Note that 1"
nominal lumber is only 3/4" thick and, therefore,
results in lower pullout values. Refer to the tables on page
30 for additional information). Pullout values may decrease
slightly if the fasteners protrude completely through the
purlins or girts. Kiln-dried softwood is recommended for
purlins, girts, or decking (pine, fir, hemlock, and spruce).
Hardwoods are difficult to fasten into without splitting and
contain acids that are corrosive to metal panels. Green
(non-kiln-dried) lumber may warp, twist, and shrink as the
wood seasons fully, causing waviness in the panels and
loosening of the fasteners.
Roofing
Sidelaps should face away
from wind driven rain. Therefore, begin installation by
installing the first sheet square with the eave and gable at
the downwind end of the roof, farthest away from the
direction of prevailing winds.
In applications requiring a
panel endlap, please refer to the details shown on page 12
of this manual. For best results, lap panels as shown and
install in the indicated sequence. All
endlaps require sealant. When weathertightness is
critical, use sealant tape in all sidelaps. See FABRAL's
F-102 Installation Guide for more information.
To provide a drip edge,
allow an overhang of 1" to 2" at the eave. At
the gable edge, use a gable or sidewall flashing.
This will keep weather out, prevent lifting in high winds,
and provide a neat, finished appearance. The trim and
roofing sheet should be fastened every 6" to 10"
inches along the gable edge.
Roof
Pitch
The metal roofing panels
shown in this manual require a minimum pitch of 2-1/2"
per foot to ensure proper drainage. Refer to the F-102
Installation Guide for the suggested endlap and the
suggested "horizontal projected roof lengths" that
apply to the various panels. For wider buildings and lower
roof pitches, contact your FABRAL dealer for other suitable
FABRAL profiles.
Bending
and Bowing
Aluminum roofing and siding
sheets are rollformed from hardened, tempered metal for
maximum strength. If a sheet must be bent, a gentle
90-degree bend is the maximum recommended. Metal should not
be re-bent once it has been formed, nor should it be folded
back on itself, since it is not designed to take a lockseam.
When a metal roofing sheet must be installed on a curved
roof, screws should be installed at every overlapping rib at
the sheet ends to resist the natural tendency of the metal
to spring back. Standard fastener spacing is permitted over
the rest of the sheet. When installing the metal roofing and
siding panels shown in this booklet over a curved arch, the
minimum radius of the arch is 18' for aluminum profiles and
24' for steel profiles. Use sealant tape or butyl caulking
at all sidelaps and endlaps.
Additional care and
fasteners must be provided when securing the top and bottom
purlins on a laminated rafter building to prevent the curved
panels from pulling the purlins loose from the rafters.
Ring-shank pole barn nails, heavy wood screws, lag screws,
or bolts are often used for attaching these purlins.
Siding
Siding should be installed
using the standard fastening and overlap patterns to ensure
optimum performance. For strong, neat corners use hemmed
corner flashings. Do not run siding
sheets all the way to the ground. Instead, provide a
protective base of concrete, masonry, treated wood, or
similar material 12" to 18" from ground level and
end the siding sheets there.
If siding sheets are
installed horizontally, use sealant tape or butyl caulking
at the vertical laps to ensure weathertight joints. Install
panels from the bottom up so that water is directed away
from, and not into, the lap joints.
Fastening
FABRAL can supply either
screws or nails for fastening into dimension lumber, with
screws offering better pullout values. Woodgrip screws for
use with steel panels are galvanized and then coated with an
organic polymer for optimum corrosion resistance. For best
results with aluminum panels, use #300 series stainless
steel Woodgrip screws.
The FabrOseal® galvanized
ring-shank nail, with its premium long-life silicone rubber
gasket, assures a lasting seal and is the best nail
available for steel panels when screws are not desired.
The correct way to fasten
steel panels with nails is to drive the nail through the top
of the rib so the washer is compressed securely against the
metal. Nail placement must be in the ribs for roofing
applications to minimize the potential for roof leaks.
Over-driving the nail can split the washer and dimple the
metal, causing leaks.
Wood screws with
combination metal and neoprene washers should be installed
in the flat area of the panel adjacent to the ribs, and
tightened such that the washer is compressed as illustrated
above. This will ensure a lasting, leak-proof seal. See
pages 4 to 5 for the correct fastener locations.
Safety
Always work safely when
installing metal products. Use extreme caution on the roof
at all times, and wear gloves and safety glasses to avoid
injury. Hearing protection should be used when power-cutting
metal panels. Do not walk on panels until all the fasteners
are installed. Metal panels are slippery when wet, dusty,
frosty, or oily. Do not attempt to walk on a metal roof
under these conditions. Wear softsoled shoes to improve
traction and to minimize damage to the paint finish. Always
be aware of your position on the roof relative to any roof
openings, roof edges, co-workers, and penetrations.
Installing metal panels on a windy day can be dangerous and
should be avoided. Consult OSHA guidelines for more complete
safety requirements.
Cutting
Aluminum Panels
To make a cut parallel to
the ribs, score the panel deeply with a sharp utility knife
and bend back-and-forth along the score, breaking the metal
off cleanly. For cuts across the ribs, use straight-cut
snips, electric or pneumatic shears, a portable profile
shear, or an electric nibbler. Some installers prefer using
a circular saw with a metal cutting blade (a finetooth
hardwood blade, or a standard combination blade reversed in
the saw works also). Light oil or soap on the blade will
make cutting easier.
Cutting
Steel Panels
Steel panels may be cut
with straight-cut snips, electric or pneumatic shears, a
portable profile shear, or an electric nibbler. Some
installers prefer using a circular saw with a metal cutting
abrasive blade. This method may be faster, but it has some
drawbacks: 1. Saw cut edges are jagged and unsightly and
tend to rust more quickly than sheared edges 2. Saw cutting
produces hot metal filings that can embed in the paint and
cause rust marks on the face of the panel 3. Panels to be
saw cut must be turned face down and cut in a location
down-wind and well away from the building and other panels
to avoid embedment of metal filings on other panels 4. Saw
cut panels must be thoroughly wiped to ensure the removal of
all metal filings 5. Saw cutting burns the paint and
galvanizing at the cut edge, leading to the onset of edge
rust.
Building
Maintenance
A metal roof should be
inspected annually and cleaned as necessary to maintain its
beauty and performance. Any debris or residue, including
leaves, twigs, and dust should be cleaned off promptly to
prevent moisture entrapment against the metal, which may
lead to finish deterioration or premature corrosion.
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Frequently
Asked Questions About Fabral Sheet Metal Products:
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Question:
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What are
the advantages of metal over other types of roofing?
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Answer:
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Prefinished metal
roofing is offered in a broad palette of attractive
colors with long-life coatings that do not support the
growth of moss, mildew or fungus. Metal panels are
lightweight, yet strong enough to withstand severe
weather—snow easily slides off the roof. Finally,
metal roofing lasts longer, conserves energy, and
requires virtually no maintenance.
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Question:
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Can I
install metal panels directly over my old, worn-out
shingles?
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Answer:
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Since metal weighs
only 1/3 as much as shingles, you can often attach
metal panels without tearing off your existing shingle
roof. This eliminates the cost and problems of
disposing of the old shingles. The best way to do this
is to attach 1" x 4" or 2"
x 4" furring strips at 24" o/c
parallel to the eave and ridge. Check local codes to
determine if tearing off shingles is required in your
area. Request Fabral's Technical Bulletin #721 for
additional information.
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Question:
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How do I
attach metal panels?
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Answer:
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You may use either
screws or nails—both color matched to the color of
your roof. Screw fasteners are preferred over nails
for superior pullout resistance and weathertightness.
Screw fasteners are designed to go into the flat part
of the panel. Nails MUST GO in the high rib of the
panel. Fasteners are typically spaced 24" o/c.
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Question:
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Can I
add insulation under the metal panels?
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Answer:
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Yes. Among the types
of insulation that can be used are fan-fold foam
insulation or foil-faced plastic bubble insulation.
You can save utility costs by making your roof more
energy efficient.
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Question:
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Is metal
roofing noisy when it rains?
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Answer:
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No more noisier than
the soothing patter that you hear now. The metal roof
panels are installed over felt paper and plywood on
the outside, with a layer of sound-deadening
insulation and your drywall ceiling on the inside.
These materials help deaden the sound.
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Question:
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How long
will a metal roof last?
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Answer:
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This could very well
by the last roof you will ever put on your home, barn,
shed or hobby shop—with life expectancies that can
easily exceed 30 years. Corrosion resistant substrates
and long-life finishes ensure long-term performance,
minimal maintenance and life-cycle cost savings.
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Question:
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Are any
special tools required?
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Answer:
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Metal roofing and
siding can be easily installed using standard hand
tools such as a screw gun, hammer, metal snips, caulk
gun, pliers, chalk line and tape measure. Cutting
metal panels is best accomplished with an electric
metal shear; however, panels may be easily cut with a
circular saw with a metal-cutting abrasive blade.
Standing seam roof systems require hand or mechanical
seaming tools available from Fabral. See our
installation instructions for complete details.
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Question:
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What is
the best material to use along the ocean?
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Answer:
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The salt spray from
the ocean is very corrosive to most steel panels;
therefore, the best solution would be to use a painted
aluminum panel in these areas.
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Question:
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Do I
need a rubber membrane underlayment under metal
roofing panels?
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Answer:
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A rubber membrane
underlayment is always a good idea as an additional
barrier against water infiltration. You should always
use one under a valley condition or any other detail
that is likely to be difficult to seal. A rubber
underlayment is also recommended at the eave and up to
at least 24" past the exterior wall in a northern
climate to help prevent water from entering the roof
due to ice damming. It should also be used on very low
slopes and when the metal panels are not sealed at
their side laps.
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Question:
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Why does
your installation manual show the metal wall panels
held so high above the ground? Can't I run the panels
all the way down to the ground?
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Answer:
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We show the panels
held up above the ground level to make sure the bottom
of the panels are not in constant contact with
moisture, which would accelerate corrosion. To avoid
contact with moisture, the panels should not be in
constant contact with the ground or vegetation.
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Question:
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Will a
metal roof make my house or building more susceptible
to a lightning strike?
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Answer:
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No. A metal roof will
not make a building more susceptible to a lightning
strike. Lightning will tend to strike the highest
object in a given area, regardless of what that object
is made of. A metal roof can actually be beneficial in
the event of a lightning strike due to being a
non-combustible material.
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Question:
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Can I
use a lead pencil to mark on my metal panels?
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Answer:
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No. Standard lead
pencils, or those made with graphite, will accelerate
the corrosion of the metal near the mark. You can use
masking tape and mark on the tape to prevent corrosion
-- plus, masking tape is easier to see.
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To request a brochure and
more information about Etomic Steel Structures and
Carports.com to be mailed to you, click
here.
|
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Etomic
Steel Structures offers quality Versatube certified metal carports, garages,
storage buildings and other kits to people like yourself, directly
from the steel manufacturer - available anywhere throughout the USA.
Widely
known for our strong tubular steel frame, our metal building kits
are custom engineered to cover your car, truck, rv, boat, tractor,
equipment, and etc...
Our
friendly customer service and personalized approach to helping customers
find metal
structures that fits their needs. Etomic Steel Structures is your source for buying metal (steel) carports,
garages, storage
buildings, rv
covers, boat
covers, and other custom engineered products nationwide!
Toll
Free 1-800-416-7478
* Except in North
Carolina
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Metal Carports